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Copyright
2008 All Rights Reserved to Connecticut Audubon Society
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Q:
Last summer I noticed
a hummingbird near the back porch. He only stayed a
moment and then left. I would like to do something to
attract them more often. Can you help?
A: Hummers are not hard to attract if
you plan it out a little. If you have a garden or even
a small flower patch or window box you can easily attract
these little beauties simply by planting the tubular,
red flowers they like. Plant as large a row as you can
of flowers such as bee balm, fuchsia, cardinal flower,
even red impatiens. Once the flowers are blooming, place
a hummingbird feeder in amongst them. The hummers will
quickly learn to come to the feeder and will often stay
throughout the summer.
Q: When should I start
feeding birds and what is the best seed?
A: Recent research has shown that since birds
do not use feeders as their sole means of support, it
is acceptable to feed birds whenever you like and as
often as you like. For instance, we used to think that
it was not a good idea to feed birds throughout the
summer or to stop a feeding program in winter to go
on vacation. We now know that both are perfectly fine.
As far as the best seed is concerned, by using a high
quality mix containing sunflower, white proso millet,
safflower and peanut hearts, you may be spending a bit
more, but will be wasting far less seed than with the
discount mixes. Don’t neglect to hang a suet cake and
provide some water as well. To purchase the best quality
seed at great prices, look for information on the fall
and winter bird seed sales taking place at many Connecticut
Audubon facilities (check our enclosed program guide
for specific dates.)
Q: Does it harm songbirds
to feed them throughout the summer?
A: Recent studies have shown that as birds
only use feeders as an alternative food source, year-round
feeding has little effect on them. Therefore, if you
enjoy seeing and feeding the birds, you can continue
all year long with no harm.
Q: I
found a baby bird in my yard. What should I do?
A: This is by far our most common summertime
call, and the answer is almost always the same. Leave
it alone or put it back near the nest, if you can find
it. If not, and the young bird is exposed to possible
danger, carefully move it into some sheltering shrubbery
nearby.Contrary to poplar belief, birds have little
or no ability to smell, and will never know if you pick
up the youngster to place it into its nest or move it
a few feet to a safer location. Adult birds are great
parents and almost never abandon their young. They do,
however, regularly leave them for short foraging periods
that become more frequent as the young get larger. This
is when most people encounter them and call us. Young
birds often leave the nest long before they can fly.
They hop around on the ground calling for their parents
that return regularly to feed them.It is almost never
a good idea to "adopt" a foundling. The result
usually spells certain death for the bird due to improper
diet, or imprinting and loss of natural instincts. Leaving
the baby bird alone is the best solution for everybody.
Q: A pigeon has arrived
in my yard that is very friendly and apparently can’t
fly. It is banded. What should I do?
A: This bird is probably lost from a local
(or sometimes very distant) pigeon club. Racing homing
pigeons is a very popular pastime in the Northeast,
and several clubs in our area get their birds together
every weekend during the warm months, truck them out
to Ohio, and release them for the race home, where the
club members have gathered for the event. It is very
well coordinated with sealed timers at the coop entrance,
and in some cases, electronic scanners that monitor
and identify birds as they enter the coop. The birds
are well-bred for flying, are hand-reared and often
quite tame. It is not unusual for a bird or two to run
low on energy on the home flight, especially if they
encounter poor weather. In such cases, the bird usually
ends up on someone’s doorstep without enough energy
to carry on, looking for some food. You can identify
these birds right away, as they are usually banded on
both legs and appear quite tame.Based on the letter
code on the bands, we sometimes can identify the pigeon’s
owner, but past experience has shown us that most owners
want nothing further to do with birds that can’t make
it. We now advise people to offer the bird food (cracked
corn, bird seed, cracker crumbs, etc.) and water for
a day or so, then release it somewhere where there are
lots of other pigeons, as in a town park or near a highway
overpass, in the hope that it will return to its own
coop and not your backyard again. Therefore it is important
not to keep it around for more than a day or so to prevent
it imprinting on your yard as it’s new home coop.
Q: I will be visiting
Connecticut this fall and would like to know where I
can go to see birds and when is the peak of the fall
migration.
A: Connecticut, with its diverse habitats
of forests, streams, mountains, marshes and seashores
is a great place for birding. We publish a "white
sheet" with our ten best birding hotspots in Connecticut;
where they are, how to get there, what to see and when.
As far as the peak of the fall migration is concerned,
generally speaking, shorebirds peak in early September,
raptors in late September, songbirds in late September/early
October, and waterfowl in November. Keep in mind that
the migration is largely weather dependent, the largest
waves coming on the heels of passing cold fronts. Also,
Connecticut Audubon will hold bird banding sessions
in the fall and this a great opportunity to study, up
close, migrating birds as they head south. Connecticut
Audubon’s Birdcraft Museum is the largest, federally-licensed,
bird banding station in the state. Call Birdcraft Museum
at 259-0416 for their fall bird banding schedule.
Q: A female mallard is
nesting underneath a shrub right next to my front door.
I’m afraid that neighborhood dogs, cats or kids will
discover her and disturb or destroy the nest. There
is much better secluded habitat behind our garage only
a few feet away. Can I move her nest to this more appropriate
location ?
A: Unfortunately, it is usually impossible
to move any wild bird’s nest more than an inch or two.
Apparently, birds recognize their nests almost solely
on their location rather than their appearance. If the
nest is moved even slightly, the returning bird will
not recognize it as her own and will abandon. Take heart,
however, although mallards sometimes choose some peculiar
locations to nest, they are well-camouflaged and will
remain hidden on the nest as long as they feel they
have not been detected. If you can use another door
whenever possible, restrain yourself and family from
peeking at the nest or drawing the attention of others
to it, the bird has a reasonable chance of hatching
her clutch. Some biologists think that these birds deliberately
choose nesting locations close to human traffic in order
to avoid predation by other wild animals.
Q: I have had a bluebird
house up in my yard for the past two years, but thus
far have only attracted house wrens. I see bluebirds
in my area each spring, why won’t they use the box?
A: Since you didn’t tell me the details of
your box, such as its location, height, etc., I can
only guess at the problem based on what I know about
house wrens. Wrens seem to prefer boxes that are near
the habitat they prefer to feed and hide in, that is,
low shrubs, bushes and brush. If your box is close to
this type of habitat, the wrens will quickly take it
over. Since they often build several nests but use only
one, they may not even be laying eggs there. If you
are most interested in the bluebirds, be sure your box
is erected at about eye level on a pole with a raccoon
baffle. Place the box at least 20 feet away from bushes,
shrubs and thickly wooded areas. Preferably, place the
box out in a grassy area with a good clearing all around
it. Bluebirds are fond of insects in the low grasses
and will use the box as a perch to look for them in
the open areas as well as a nesting cavity. Don’t nail
your bluebird houses to trees, as this is sure to attract
squirrels and raccoons. Also, don’t try to provide boxes
for both bluebirds and wrens in the same area! Wrens
will drive off the bluebirds, peck holes in their eggs,
and even kill the young.
Q: I live near a wooded
area and have a small field nearby. My neighbors and
I have seen what we think is a coyote several times
in our backyards. As we both have small children and
dogs, should we take steps to protect ourselves, and
who can we call on to help?
A: You may be correct. The eastern coyote
is on the increase all across the northeast, and is
well established in Connecticut. It has been widely
reported that coyotes attack dogs and cats as well as
domestic livestock. Although this has undoubtedly occurred,
it is certainly not common and it is unfair to label
these animals as the "big bad wolf". Eastern
coyotes eat a diverse number of plants, animals and
insects. From grasshoppers to fallen fruit, winter killed
deer, mice, squirrels, and woodchucks, coyotes are opportunists
willing to take advantage of nearly any available food
source. They are also highly intelligent canines that
habituate fairly quickly to people where they are not
persecuted. Thus, these animals are not afraid to expose
themselves to view and sometimes even seem curious about
human affairs.Like all wild animals, it is unwise to
approach, feed or try to touch coyotes. You should be
aware that coyotes are in your area, but do not be alarmed.
Small pets should not be left alone unprotected or unsupervised
anyway, coyotes or no. If you are having persistent
coyote or other wildlife problems of one sort or another,
you can call the DEP Wildlife Unit in Hartford for assistance.
Q: Skunks and/or Crows are
digging up my lawn and peeling back the turf causing
widespread damage that I have to repair every day. Help!
Why are they doing this?
A: These diggers are undoubtedly mining for
insects, in this case, specifically, Japanese beetle
larvae and other grubs that live in the root systems
of lawn grasses.These tasty grubs are particularly favored
by skunks and crows who will quickly convert your lawn
into an open strip mine in their lust for these juicy
snacks.If you can eliminate the grubs, you will solve
the problem. However, before you call "NukeLawn",
ask your friendly Cooperative Extension Service what
non-chemical, biologically-friendly agents will help
combat these subterranean insects.
Q: We have recently
moved to Connecticut from Los Angeles and our neighbor
says he killed a poisonous snake (a copperhead) in his
yard. We have young children and a small dog and we
are concerned about their safety; can you give us some
information?
A: Almost invariably when someone says they
killed or found a copperhead, it is instead a harmless
milk snake. Eastern milk snakes are much more common
and routinely seen throughout Connecticut. Copperheads
may be seen in parts of the state, particularly trap
rock ridges of central Connecticut. But, even there,
they are very secretive. Generally active at night,
they are rarely seen. The copperhead can told apart
from other snakes by the solid, unmarked, coppery-colored
head, a temperature-sensitive pit between each eye and
nostril, a red or pink tongue, and raised or keeled
scales on the body. Copperheads also have thick, reddish-brown
bodies with darker, reddish-brown hourglass shaped saddles
along their body. Eastern milk snakes have no pits.
They have smooth and shiny scales, a black tongue, and
a silvery-colored background with dark to medium squared
blotches along their body. They also have a brown-striped
pattern on their head. If you’re unsure of the identification
of a snake, it is best to observe it from a safe distance
and leave it alone. It is a shame that so many snakes
are maligned and killed senselessly. All are a necessary
part of our biodiversity and play an important role
in keeping down numbers of rodents and potential garden
pests. If left alone, they seldom present a threat.
Q:
There is a bird in my yard that is singing even though
it is winter and it is driving me crazy because I can't
find it! The song sounds like "pa-tweeta-pa-tweeta-pa-tweeta-pa-tweet"
or sometimes like "cheeva-cheeva-cheeva" and
is very loud. What kind of bird is this, why can't I
find it and why is it singing at the wrong time of year?
A: The bird you are hearing is the Carolina
wren (Thryothorus ludovicianus). This large wren is
distinguished by having a white line over its eye, reddish
brown upper parts and a short, vertically held tail.
As you mentioned, the male Carolina wren is a mighty
singer, and more often heard than seen. At the slightest
disturbance, this wary bird seeks concealment and can
disappear into a tangle with amazing speed. Even though
shy, it is quite territorial toward others of its own
kind, which explains the fact that males sing through
the winter. Spending most of its time on or near the
ground foraging in brush piles and thickets, the Carolina
wren also climbs up or around tree trunks prying for
insects. Although animal matter makes up the majority
of its diet, it will come to the feeder for sunflower
kernels. The Carolina wren is found north to Nebraska
and Massachusetts, west to Texas and south to the Gulf
coast and northern Mexico. At the northern part of its
range, such as here in Connecticut, populations can
be cut back severely because of heavy snows. The blanket
of snow keeps the birds from getting their normal source
of insect food on the ground. Such was the case in the
winter of 1993. I hope we will hear the mighty singer
more often in the future.
Q: I know that squirrels
are a problem everywhere with people who feed birds,
but mine are ruining my suet feeders and keeping the
woodpeckers, nuthatches and other birds away. I thought
squirrels were vegetarians, have you any suggestions
?
A: Although squirrels are mainly vegetarians,
they sometimes eat insects and other invertebrates,
and even bird’s eggs. Try using pure beef suet without
added seeds or peanut butter. This will help, but may
not totally eliminate your problem. Place your suet
in a heavy, vinyl-coated wire basket that the birds
can peck through, but the squirrels can’t bite into
or through, and, like your other bird feeders, place
it in a location that is as difficult for squirrels
to reach as possible.
Q: In the last week,
two or three very large turtles suddenly appeared at
different times on my lawn and began digging holes.
The lawn is quite a distance from any water and I’m
wondering what were they doing here and why?
A: The turtles you observed were probably
female snapping turtles seeking a good location to lay
their eggs. Turtles, being reptiles, must lay their
eggs on dry land, so even the most aquatic of these
animals must come ashore to successfully reproduce.
Snapping turtles prefer a sandy to loamy area where
the soil is moist and receives sufficient sunlight to
incubate their clutch. Lawn areas are often perfect
for this and the turtles will travel long distances
over land to reach them. Once the site has been selected,
the female will lay up to 30 eggs that will hatch in
about 90 days, if the skunks don’t smell them and dig
them up first. For obvious reasons you should not attempt
to handle or disturb an adult female snapping turtle
laying her eggs! Even snapping turtles have an important
role in nature. It is best to let nature take its course.
You probably will never see the young turtles when they
hatch and quickly depart for the nearest water under
the cover of darkness, and the small disturbance to
your lawn will quickly grow in.
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